(PARIS) Marc Jacobs' "love letter to Paris," as he called his Spring 2009 collection for Louis Vuitton, has been answered--with another riff on the idea by Jacobs himself. This season, he looked to Parisian muses--Victoire de Castellane and Ines de la Fressange, he cited backstage--in particular. "I was thinking of all these wonderful French women who have inspired the designers I've always respected and admired," Jacobs said. To that note, there were approximately five distinct stories--many jazzed up with lace, ruching, bubble silhouettes, strong-shouldered jackets, and paisley. The accessories, as always, compete with the clothes--the inverted cone-heels and hair accessories punctuated with pearls, the ever-more-luxe bags in even more mixed media. In 62 looks, Jacobs created a tapestry woven with so much French spirit--"joie de vivre, joie de fashion" as he called it--that it takes some irrevocable gravitas to eschew the rush of emotions and sensations that this show evoked. The fashion world--and the luxury industry--thanks him heartily.
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